Tanzania has the fourth highest
number of deaths from AIDS in the world [Rieger
In a small room in a
dusty back street, Hamisi and 12 other male sex workers are
preparing for a long night of work.
Just after dark, they stuff
their pockets full of condoms and divvy up the nearby communities
using markers and a hand-drawn map. From there, they head to the
bars and alleyways across the city where men discreetly sell sex to
other men.
But tonight, they are not
selling sex. They are trying to get their peers to go to a
government-run hospital for an HIV test - a hard sell in a country
with a strong social stigma against homosexuality and lengthy jail sentences for men convicted of
having sex with other men.
That has not stopped gay rights
activists such as Hamisi from demanding change.
Hamisi and the other sex workers
interviewed asked that their last names not be used to protect
their identities. In a country where obtaining legal rights for gay
people is not likely to happen soon, they are using a public health
crisis to demand recognition.
Tanzania has the fourth-highest
number of deaths from AIDS in the world, and the HIV infection rate
among gay men is more than four times the national
average - numbers even the most homophobic of
governments have been hard-pressed to ignore.
Adam was shaking when he entered
one of Dar es Salaam's government hospitals with Hamisi the next
day. Adam is an HIV-positive male sex worker, and before he met
Hamisi, he could not have imagined coming to a state hospital for
treatment.
"In the government hospitals, we
face discrimination. Instead of treating us, they'll call people
over: 'Come and see, we have a gay here.' Then they'll say, 'We
can't treat you. Get out of here.'"
In the past, gay men have mostly
relied on Dar es Salaam's more expensive private clinics for
treatment. But, Adam said, "for the MSM [men who have sex with men]
who are poor, they can only afford to go to government
hospitals".
While gay men are rarely, if
ever, prosecuted under the law in Tanzania, the social stigma it
perpetuates can be deadly.
"People rape us, people kill us,
people beat us because of our sexual orientation," said
Hamisi.
So Adam was shocked when Mary, a
nurse at Magomeni Government Hospital, grabbed Hamisi's hand,
smiled warmly and led them to an examination room.
"I like working with them
because we're helping them," said Mary, who regularly works with
Hamisi to treat the male sex workers he brings to the hospital.
"This job comes from my heart. I don't like to see people
suffering."
Mary did not always feel this
comfortable. But in 2011, she and her co-workers attended a
training session run by Population Services International and
Engender Health to learn how to better help gay men, as well as
intravenous drug users and sex workers.
"The training answered so many
of my questions," said Mary. "You have to take care of them.
They're people like us."
"People rape us, people
kill us, people beat us because of our sexual
orientation."
Hamisi, sex worker
The training started because
Tanzania's once-successful national HIV/AIDS strategy had hit a
wall. The government had no comprehensive plan for addressing the
fact that groups most at risk for contracting HIV, including gay
men, were often the least likely to receive services.
At the peak of the AIDS epidemic
in the 1990s, nearly one in 10 Tanzanians were
HIV-positive. With massive international aid -
including $1.5bn in the past decade alone - the Tanzanian
government developed aggressive public health policies that made
sexual health information and antiretroviral drugs widely
available.
Ten years later, infection rates
have dropped from 8.5 percent to 5.8 percent.
But since 2007, the percentage
of HIV-positive Tanzanians has declined only slightly down
to five percent. Despite the widespread availability of
treatment, many Tanzanians - especially gay men - are not receiving
it.
"I would help men get tested,
but because of the stigma and discrimination, they
wouldn't get treatment," said Hamisi of his outreach
efforts.
Joyce Nyonyi is a lecturer at
the University of Dar es Salaam who researches the
topic.
"The HIV infection rates amongst
MSM is so much higher compared to the general population, so
basically denying them access was counter-intuitive,"
Nyonyi said.
This was where gay rights
activists saw an opening. If their rights were framed in the
context of the country's HIV epidemic, the government would be
compelled to acknowledge them.
"The area that they have done
most of the organising around has been health and HIV, and the
right to HIV services," said Neela Ghoshal, a senior
researcher with Human Rights Watch. "In fact, they have found that
this is the easiest, and in some cases, one of the only ways to
actually have a dialogue with the government and religious
leaders."
Given that many gay men in this
conservative society have wives or girlfriends, fighting HIV has an
urgency even to Tanzanians who do not support gay
rights.
"People tend to see them as a
very separate group, but being MSM does not mean that you don't
have female partners. Many of them do," said Nyonyi. "You can't say
it's their problem, they'll deal with it."
Tanzania's efforts are beginning
to bear fruit.
In 2013, TACAIDS, the government
organisation that coordinates Tanzania's HIV/AIDS response,
included men who have sex with men in its national HIV strategy. The organisation noted
that HIV prevalence among this group is disproportionately high,
and along with drug users and sex workers, men who have sex with
men "are in evident need of enhanced access to HIV prevention,
treatment, and other healthcare services".
Nyonyi said the changes have
indeed been significant. "There is support from the government now.
The Ministry of Health has supported us quite a lot, and they're
using our findings to formulate better policies around services for
MSM."
TACAIDS also made a study on HIV
and gay men in Tanzania available on its website.
Nevertheless, this
shift has not led to radical changes in how gay men in
Tanzania are treated.
"Changing the legal framework
[criminalising homosexuality] - it will probably be a long time
until that is done," said Nyonyi.
While gay men may be safer
inside the hospital walls, that protection often ends as soon as
they are on the street. Even Mary the nurse has had neighbours
threaten her because of her work.
But for Adam, even incremental
change can be momentous.
"Considering the distance we've
come from this is some kind of improvement," said Adam as he walked
out of the clinic, "there are some health providers we can
trust."
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